Installation Time
(approx) 2 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
Installation Guides
No guide available for this part yet.
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So, this one's pretty easy. If you own a '06 or newer four-wheel drive RAM 1500 excluding the Mega Cab and you wanna level out the front end of your RAM, you wanna get rid of that factory rake, and you wanna do it as affordably and as easily as possible, you should be checking out the MotoFab 2.5-inch front leveling kit that I've got on this strut in front of me today. I say that because around the $65 price point, this is a lot less expensive than any of the other leveling kits currently available, but it is still really well made. It's actually made out of CNC machined aluminum so you're not gonna have to worry about this thing compressing over time and you're not gonna have to worry about any rust or corrosion. On top of that, it's also fitted with a nice black powder coat finish and they do throw in new studs for the factory nuts on top of the strut making the install pretty straightforward.Now, as far as that install goes, it is something that you could do at home with basic hand tools. You will need a little bit of knowledge because you are working with your primary suspension components. And for that reason, I'm gonna give the install a pretty moderate two out of three wrenches on my difficulty meter. It should take you about two to three hours to get both sides done. So, again, if you wanna level out the front end of your RAM 1500, you wanna do it as affordably as possible, go ahead and stick around, I'll show you guys all the tools you need and I'm gonna walk you through the install step by step.To install your leveling kit, you'll need standard drive ratchets, you'll also need 8, 10, 13, 15, 16, 21, and 23-millimeter sockets. You'll need 15,16, 21, 23, and 24-millimeter wrenches. You'll also need a hammer and a pry bar. Now, optional but very helpful tools include an impact gun and some spray lubricant.All right. So, first, we have to disconnect our sway bar end link. In order to do that, you're gonna need an 18-millimeter wrench to hold the nut in place. You're also gonna need an 8-millimeter deep socket to get the end of the end link itself spinning. That'll help you loosen it so you can move it out of the way. All right. Now that you've loosened the sway bar end link, you can also disconnect the tie rod end here. You're gonna disconnect this nut using a 21-millimeter deep socket. All right. Next, we're gonna disconnect our upper ball joint from the knuckle. At this point, it's also helpful to support the entire steering assembly from the lower control arm using a floor jack or a pole jack. Now, you're gonna need a 21-millimeter wrench for this one, and you're also gonna need a hammer. You're gonna tap on the boss of the knuckle there to loosen it once you actually pop that nut free.All right. Now, we're gonna loosen the lower portion of our strut. In order to do that, you're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket and a 24-millimeter wrench. All right. Now, we can finally remove our strut and in order to do that, you're gonna loosen three nuts on top of the strut. You're gonna need a 15-millimeter wrench for this one. All right. So, if you run into any clearance issues while you're removing the strut, easy way to get around that is to remove the sway bar end link entirely. Now, the top nut on the end link is gonna require a 16-millimeter deep socket. Now, if the end link starts rotating on you, you can actually hold it in place right here using a 15-millimeter wrench.All right. Now that we have our strut removed, we're gonna install our spacer, but before we do that, we have to install these new studs here. They're gonna go through the threaded holes and you're gonna need a 5/16 Allen head socket to tighten these down. All right. Once you've got your studs in place, go ahead and throw the spacer on top of the strut and you're going to secure them to the original studs on the strut using the provided nyloc nuts. You're gonna need a 17-millimeter socket to tighten these down.All right. Now, obviously, with that spacer on the Strut, it might be a bit of a squeeze trying to get it back in place, especially since it's got that little flange on the end on the bottom there. To make it easy on ourselves, we're gonna pull caliper off our rotor. It's just held in with two bolts, so you're gonna need a 13-millimeter deep socket. All right. Now that we have our strut back in place, we can install the lower bolt with the nut. We're just gonna leave this hand loose for now. Now that our strut is secure on the bottom, we're gonna secure it on the top. We're gonna put our original 15-millimeter nuts in place, and again, you're gonna need a 15-millimeter wrench to tighten all these down.All right. Now, we're gonna get our tie rod end inserted and we're gonna reinstall that 21-millimeter nut and tighten that down again with our 21-millimeter socket. All right. Now, if the entire end of the tie rod starts spinning on you, instead, you're gonna need a 10-millimeter deep socket and a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the nut in place while you tighten it down. All right. With your tie rod end inserted, we can finally get the upper ball joint into the knuckle as well. Again, that's another 21-millimeter nut. Now, it's kind of a hard job to do, but if you have a friend with a pry bar, it'll make it a lot easier. You wanna shove the pry bar on top of the upper control arm, get some leverage on it, pull it down, line up the stud with the boss on the knuckle, and you should be able to get that nut in place.All right. Next, we're gonna reinstall our caliper. We're also gonna tighten the nut here on our axle. All right. Next, we're gonna reinstall the hardware on our sway bar end link. Now that everything else is in place, we're gonna finally tighten down our bottom bolt and nut for the strut itself. All right. Once you got all those nuts and bolts tightened down, do a once over before you throw your wheels back on, that way you can be sure those wheels aren't gonna fall off after the fact.Other than that, that wraps up my review of the MotoFab 2.5-inch front leveling kit fitting your '06 or newer four-wheel drive equipped RAM. I'm Travis, thanks for watching. And for all things RAM, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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2006-2019 RAM 1500 MotoFab 2.5 in. Front Leveling Kit (w/o Air Ride) Review & Install
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Brand | MotoFab |
Leveling Kit Location | Front |
Leveling Kit Lift Height | 2.50 Inch |
Leveling Kit Includes Shocks | Shocks Not Included |
True Level Lift. The MotoFab 2.5 inch Front Leveling Kit is designed to provide your Dodge RAM 1500 4WD with a true 2.5-inch level lift. You can rely on the excellent craftsmanship of these spacers that are the best currently on the market since they won’t crack over time like welded spacers.
Billet Aluminum. The spacers are made to last with durable billet aluminum that undergoes precision CNC machining. The strong black powder coated finish was designed to ensure that the spacers match the factory suspension in your truck.
Simple Installation. With basic hand tools and general mechanical knowledge, you can complete this installation in about 1-1/2 to 2 hours. Unlike with other installation kits, you will not need to disassemble the strut and spacer.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. The manufacturer provides customers with a limited lifetime warranty which covers manufacturing defects. Some exclusions may apply, so read through all the warranty information.
Application. The MotoFab 2.5 inch Front Leveling Kit is designed to fit all 2006-2025 Dodge RAM 1500 4WD models excluding Mega Cab. The kit does not fit 2WD models.
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Fitment:
MotoFab DR-2.5
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Installation Info
Installation Time
(approx) 2 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
Installation Guides
No guide available for this part yet.
What's in the Box
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