2019-2025
2014-2018
2007-2013
1999-2006
Installation Time
(approx) 3 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Suspension Lift Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)Find parts that fit my vehicle
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(1)Jake: Jake here for American Trucks. And today, I'm taking a look at the Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front and Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, for 2007 to 2018 Silverado 1500s. Now, this kit is going to appeal to the Silverado owner who's looking to have it all with their lift kit. It's simple, it's high-quality, and it's budget-friendly enough to fit anyone's needs. So, if you're looking for more clearance for larger wheels and tires, or if you just want a better stance for your truck, then this kit is gonna have you covered.If you wanna get more height out of your Silverado, whether that's for the look, the off-road capability, or just to get some larger wheels and tires fitted, this kit from Supreme Suspensions is gonna give you just what you're looking for. Stock, this generation of Silverado had a lot of different wheel and tire options, but most of them tend to hover around the 31-inch tire range. Now, with this kit, you can fit up to 33s without any rubbing issues. The 35s are gonna be pushing it, and would probably require some trimming. So I would recommend sticking with 33s for the sake of having options, and not having to trim anything on your truck. Up front, you get a set of strut spacers that measure about 1.25 inches in actual height. Now, it's important to remember that sometimes with suspension lifts, they are not gonna be one-to-one, so the height of the spacer doesn't necessarily correlate to exactly how much lift you're gonna get. It all has to do with suspension geometry. But, these are gonna give you 2 inches of lift in the front end of the truck.Now, spacers, as you can see, aren't anything complicated, but due to what their function is, it's really important that they are done right. Supreme Suspensions CNC machines these out of a solid block of 6061 T6 aircraft-grade aluminum, and then they finish everything off with this really nice black anodized coating. So these are gonna be supremely strong and durable. And unlike polyurethane spacers, these aren't gonna go soft, so they're not gonna break down or lose their height over time. And the aluminum plus the anodized coating means that they're gonna withstand the elements as well, so you're not gonna run into issues with rust or corrosion. Plus, you get all-new hardware to go with them.Out back, you have a traditional block-style lift. Now, these are one size all the way through, and they measure a true 2 inches in height. Centering post up here, gonna make everything nice and easy to get it aligned, and these are super strong. Unlike a lot of other types of block-style lift, these aren't welded, they aren't made of any type of steel. They're one solid piece. Now, Supreme Suspensions does say that these can withstand up to 60,000 pounds of force without deformation, and, from picking it up, you can see that that's probably true. So, it's safe to say that these are gonna be able to withstand whatever you could possibly throw at them. You also get all new U-bolts, to account for that added height, and these are finished in a black powder coat too, so not only are they gonna match, but they're also gonna be able to withstand the elements, and not succumb to rust or corrosion. Plus, you get all-new hardware for those too.Now, pricing for this kit is gonna come in at about $275. And that is on the expensive side for a spacer lift, but I really think that the quality here speaks for itself. You could, of course, get something that's less expensive, but it's not necessarily gonna have the same quality finish or construction as this one. And for something that mounts in such a critical location, in my humble opinion, it's absolutely worth spending the extra money, because you're not gonna find a whole lot of spacer lifts that are like this.Now, installation will come in at a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty scale, and it should take you about three hours or so to complete. This is gonna require moving some bits out of the wheel well, unbolting some things, dropping down those rear leaf springs and whatnot, in order to gain access to the front struts, and the blocks in the rear, respectively. Overall, it is not a hard process, just something that's gonna take you some time. And one reminder too is that once you've got everything bolted back together, you should plan on getting an alignment done on your truck, because you are gonna be changing around the suspension geometry. And to show you the install process now, let's throw it over to one of our AT customers.Man 1: Tools used to do Supreme Suspension 2-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Lift, Item Number S106732. Twenty-two-millimeter socket, 19-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 10-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter wrench, 15-millimeter wrench, 22-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter wrench, 5/16 Allen, channel locks, 1/2-inch drive impact gun, a hammer, a pry bar, set of punches, 3/8 drive ratchet, 1/4-inch drive ratchet.To start the installation of the 2-inch front lift, you're gonna start by taking off the caliper bracket and the caliper. And to do that, you're gonna remove the two nuts in the back holding the caliper bracket on, and the two nuts holding the caliper to the bracket. To remove the caliper, you're gonna use a 19. Put those nuts to the side. To remove the caliper itself, see if it's tight. You might need a pry bar to do this. Set this off to the side. And this is where your bungee's gonna come in handy. Find a good spot to hang this up. Now, take your 18 and remove the caliper bracket. Now would also be a good time to inspect your brake pads and your rotors. See if they need to be replaced while you have everything apart. Pull this off. Store this to the side. If you have brake cleaner handy, you can clean those up a little bit. Once you have that bracket off, you may or may not have a set screw right here. In my case I do not. You can remove your rotor. Now would be a good time to inspect your rotor, see if it has grooves in it, if it needs to be replaced. If it does, I would suggest replacing it, so that way, you don't have a bumpy brake pedal.Once you have your rotor off, you're gonna see two bolts holding on your ABS line. You're gonna remove those. You'll see your 10-millimeter here. And in the back, on top of the upper control arm, you'll see another 10-millimeter. That removes this ABS line. That way, when you drop your control arm, you don't have a lot of tension on it. And the rear one actually holds your rear brake line up here, so that way, when that comes up, it doesn't pull on that rubber line. We're gonna remove this one, and we're actually just gonna put the screw right back in the top. Easier to find later. Do the same with this upper one. Gonna put it right back in place. That way, it's not missing for later.After that, we're gonna remove the upper control arm nut, which is your 18-millimeter wrench, and you're just gonna loosen this, just a little bit, just so we have everything broken and ready to come off. Once that is loose, you can go down and loosen your tie rod nut. Gonna take your 21-millimeter wrench, and loosen this. Once you have that nice and loose, you can take your 18-millimeter socket, and pull that right off. Now you take your hammer, and you smack your tie rod [inaudible 00:09:39] And you'll see it start to pop up. There you go. And just so everyone knows, you're not smacking the tie rod itself. You're smacking your knuckle, and that'll cause that to break tension.Before you drop your upper control arm also, you'll see towards the back of the strut, you'll have your sway bar linkage. That's gonna be your 15-millimeter wrench and 15-millimeter socket. Just gonna take that out, and that allows the complete assembly to drop down a little more, give you more room to get that strut out. Now you're gonna remove the upper control arm nut completely, and that's gonna go back to your 18. And this is where you might need a channel lock, potentially, to hold that in place. Either that or a vise grip.Man 2: [inaudible 00:10:41]Man 1: Now you take your pry bar, if the vise grip doesn't work. Let's see if that puts enough tension on that upper control arm to get the nut off. Now you're gonna smack the knuckle, and it'll pop right out. Now we're gonna start with the top of the strut. And when you go to the top of the strut, you'll notice you have 18-millimeter nuts up top. You're gonna loosen those, and you see three of them. Two in the back, one in the front. And then after we get those loose, we're gonna move to the bottom, and you'll see two more nuts on the bottom, holding that in. So, you'll see one right here in the front, and then one in the back on the left-hand side. Just has a little clip on that. You can take your pry bar and just pry up on that, and you'll see it start to come up. You just wanna get that loose, and there you go. The two in the back might be easier to get from inside the engine bay.Once you have those three up top loosened, you're gonna move down below, and you'll see two more on the bottom of the strut, holding it to the lower control arm. Those are gonna be your 15-millimeter socket to remove those. So, we're gonna start off by getting these loose. These might be a little stiff to get off, only because they're at the bottom of your lower control arm. Once you have them loose, you can jump to the other one, make that loose. Gonna start by taking these out, and once we get these all the way out, we're gonna go up to the top and remove the three 18s holding the top of the strut in. If you wanted to use an impact wrench on this, it would definitely speed up the process. Gonna put these off to the side once you get them out. This is all hardware that we're gonna end up reusing. I'm gonna use an impact wrench. And then, once you have those two out, we're gonna go back up, and we're gonna remove the three 18s now. Like I said previously, it might be easier to get those out from the engine bay for the two back ones, using an extension and an 18-millimeter socket. Once you have those 18s out, you'll see your strut will just slide right out, with the lower control arm able to move up and down freely, and this is where we're gonna start to mount the spacer, right to the top of this.One thing that I did not mention in the video, but I did mention in the list of tools, is you're going to need a cut-off wheel, once you put your spacer on top, to remove excess thread from the original mounting studs. With your spacer in hand, you're gonna take this, so that way, you have the larger holes facing towards the tops, and then you're gonna have the smaller holes facing towards the bottom, so that way, you can get your 5/16 Allen through this, and thread it in. And this is where you're gonna put your Loctite, so that way, everything stays where it is after the install. You're gonna line up your holes. Make sure you find the right pattern. And as you see, on the tops, you're gonna have the original mounting studs sticking through. What you're gonna do is take your cut-off wheel, and you wanna cut these flush. And what I would recommend is taking your original nuts, and thread it down, so that way, when you cut off, it cleans up the grooves, so that way you don't have it stuck.So, you're gonna use your 18 socket to put these down. Just make sure they're not cross-threaded. And as you'll see, these are sitting flush with the top of the spacer now. And that's what it should look like after using the cut-off wheel. Once you have them hand-tightened, take your ratchet or impact gun, crank them down, and make sure that they're fully tightened where they won't come loose. Now, at this point, because you added the spacer on top, this is gonna be a full 180-degree turn from when you originally took it out, and we're gonna repeat the process and just reverse the steps, put everything back together.All right. So, at this point, you're gonna press down on your lower control arm. Not too much, keeping in mind that your CV joint's right here, and you don't wanna pop the joint. And then you're just gonna line this up with the three holes up top. You want the two studs in the back, and the single stud in the front. And if you have a helper, he can go up top and catch the 18s. And you're gonna reuse the old hardware for that. And on this point, you wanna crank down the two rear 18s, leaving the front one a little loose, so that way, you could still catch your 15s below, and line everything up perfectly.So, on the lower, when putting the 15-millimeter bolts back in, you might need the assistance of a floor jack, because you'll see when you put this in, because the lower control arm, the angle's gonna be off a little bit. So, to match that angle back up perfectly so you don't end up cross-threading, use the floor jack, right underneath the lower ball joint, to straighten out your angle. Once you have those in, you can start tightening up those, and then you can move back up to the top through the engine bay, and tighten up the other three 18-millimeter nuts.Now, move up to the 18-millimeters up top. Replace your clip that's holding the wire to the rear left nut. And now we're gonna start putting the control arms back together. Now, reassemble your upper control arm. You'll notice that we used the jack underneath the lower control arm to bring it up. That way, you can get your upper ball joint back together. In this scenario, we're using a pry bar to bring it back down, to put tension on it. That way, the upper ball joint does not spin as we're reassembling.[inaudible 00:19:57] Once you have your upper control arm put together, you could replace your ABS bracket, and start with putting your tie rod back together also. You'll see in the back left, we're replacing the sway bar bolt. That's your 15-millimeter again, putting that back together. Once we have that tight, we'll turn the wheel, so that way, we can get the tie rod in, and continue our reassembly process.Reinstalling the upper bracket for the ABS. That's gonna be your 10-millimeter socket. Just make those snug. They don't need a lot to hold them in. They're very small, and they will snap. We're gonna move to the ABS, holding to the knuckle. Just to double-check yourself, don't do like we did. Make sure your ABS line is above your upper control arm, not below it. Once you reposition your ABS line the proper way, re-secure the front 10-millimeter bolt to the knuckle, and tighten that down, making it a little past hand tight. That way, you don't snap it.Once your ABS line is in, now move to your tie rod end, line up your knuckle, that way, it lines up nice, and that's your 21-millimeter to tighten that up. While doing this install, just go across, look at everything. We're gonna end up greasing all of our joints, what we can, and once we're done with that, we're gonna move back over to reinstall on our brakes. Now, we're gonna start the reinstall of the rotor, the caliper bracket, and the brake caliper. As stated previously in the video, inspect your rotor. Inspect your brakes. See if they need to be replaced. In my case, they needed upgrades, and that is what we are doing. You're gonna replace your two 18-millimeter bolts that hold the rear caliper bracket on. One below, one up top. You wanna make sure that those are tight. When putting your caliper back on, especially if you change out your brake pads to new ones, you're gonna have to reset the pistons back into the caliper. You could do so by reusing the old brake pad and a C-vise grip, to press them back in. You could thread in by hand...Man 2: I always thread them in by hand.Man 1: ...your two 19 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket. Once those are tight...Man 2: You're done.Man 1: ...the job is complete. Just go back over, double-check everything, make sure everything is tight. Your tie rod, your upper control arm bolt. Make sure your lower strut tower bolts are tight. Double-check your three upper ones, to make sure those are tight. You replace the wire harness that's hold to the upper one, and job is complete. Now, for the driver's side, you just repeat this exact process, and it is the same steps. Nothing changes.All right. So now, moving to the back, to do the 2-inch lift on the rear, you'll be removing this block, and you're gonna be replacing it with the new block. To do so, you need to remove the four 21-millimeter nuts holding the U-bolts to the axle.Man 2: On our setup, we were able to loosen three out of the four. You might have to cut these bolts to get them out. So, we're gonna cut one on the other side, and drop these bolts out.Man 1: Before you do so, make sure you have your axle supported, and when you have your axle supported, you'll see that we have two blocks on both sides, going directly to the frame of the truck, so the only thing dropping is the axle, and not the whole truck itself.Man 2: Yeah. This one, we're gonna cut.Man 1: Now, for the last one, make sure you have eye protection on. And this one is going to be cut with the cut-off wheel. The bottom plate will be reused for the lift. That does not get discarded. Now, once you have that removed, slowly lower your jack, supporting your axle.Man 2: Plate comes out. The plate should fit in.Man 1: Pry bar?Man 2: Gonna need the pry bar. If you're one person, you're gonna need to remove the shock. We have two of us, so I was able to push down hard enough to get this block in. Otherwise, you're not gonna have enough room. Once the block is in, you use the new U-bolts...Man 1: When you look at the block, you'll notice that there's a nipple on the bottom, that goes towards the ground. And on the other side, there's a hole. You'll see a nub on the bottom of the leaf spring that's supposed to sit center in that hole. And once you do this, you can jack the axle back up, to hold tension, and now you reverse your process and add your plate back to it.Man 2: [inaudible 00:28:30]Man 1: Any more you need?Man 2: Three.Man 1: Three washers?Man 2: Yeah. I'm good.Man 1: [inaudible 00:29:21] Now, to hold tension on, you could raise the axle back up.Man 2: Now, you wanna try to tighten these evenly, and after about a week of driving, you have to re-tighten these U-bolts, because they tend to stretch, and then they'll loosen.Man 1: You'll notice that he's evenly distributing, as much as he tightens from left to right, front to back. Before you tighten these, you'll notice a gap here. Don't worry about that. As you tighten the U-bolts down, that gap will close. As long as you have that top nub on the leaf spring centered with the hole, and the nipple on the actual block facing downwards into the hole on the axle, that gap will close itself up.Man 2: There's your 2-inch.Man 1: And there's your different sizes in the spacers.Man 2: Just remember to re-tighten these.Man 1: And remember the check back after a couple days of driving, to re-tighten those U-bolts, because they will stretch over the axle. All right. Now we're on the passenger side, to add the block in. And on our passenger side, the four nuts holding the U-bolts to the axle are completely frozen. So, instead of wasting time trying to unfreeze them, we're going to cut the tops of the U-bolts, one on the inside of the axle, and one on the outside of the axle, for both sets of U-bolts. Remember, while doing this process, while cutting, put safety glasses on, as there's a lot of dust, and clearly metal.Man 2: And use the shield for the cut-off wheel.Man 1: Now, you could slowly lower your axle. Slower than that. All right. So, on our side, we don't have enough clearance. We're gonna have to remove the shock. All right. So, to remove that shock is a 21-millimeter wrench on the back, and a 21-millimeter socket.Man 2: Now you can let it back down.Man 1: Now you could lower your jack stand, and you'll see how freely that drops. And once again, you'll see the nipple facing down into the top of the axle.Man 2: There's a hole in the top.Man 1: There's a hole in the top, and the little nub on top.Man 2: Jack.Man 1: Once it's lined up, you could raise the jack. Get the shock inside the perch.Man 2: Keep on going. Stop.Man 1: Line your hole up to replace the bolt inside the shock, and reverse the process of removing it. You have all the nuts and washers. Now, tighten up evenly, going from front to back and left to right. And before you're done, just remember to tighten your shock back into place.Man 2: Now you're finished.Man 1: And that is the complete installation of a 2-inch lift around the whole truck. Now, just reinstall your wheels, and enjoy your lift.Jake: That's gonna do it for our review and install of these Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front and Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, for 2007 to 2018 Silverado 1500s. Thank you so much for watching, and remember, for all things Silverado, be sure to keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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2007-2018 Silverado 1500 Supreme Suspensions 2 Inch Pro Billet Lift Kit Review & Install
37:01
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Product Information
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Features & Specs
- Full Suspension Lift Kit
- T6 Aircraft Billet Aluminum
- Zinc Plates for Extended U Bolts
- 2" Front Lift and 2" Rear Lift
- Special Anodized Coating
- Sold Individually
- Doesn't Bend Under Stress
- Limited Lifetime Warranty
- Fits All 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 Models
| Brand | Supreme Suspensions |
| Lift Height | 2.00 Inch |
| Lift Kit Type | Spacer Lift |
| Lift Kit Max Tire Size | 33 Inch |
| Lift Kit Includes Shocks | Shocks Not Included |
Description
High Accuracy. The Supreme Suspensions 2 in. Front / 2 in. Rear Pro Lift Kit are created for accurately lifting your truck. If you want a more intense look for your truck, be sure to get this kit in order to level your vehicle and get that exact lift.
Greater Strength and Durability. You'll be glad you bought this lift kit since it doesn't bend or change shape when under high stress or heavy loads. The 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum gives the product great strength and durability. Additionally, the anodized coating will keep the lift kit from rusting.
Simple, Fast Installation. You'll find the installation simple and easy since no specialized tools are required.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. This product comes with a limited lifetime warranty. In this case, the full suspension lift kit will be guaranteed against material or manufacturing problems for the lifetime of your vehicle.
Application. The Supreme Suspensions 2 in. Front / 2 in. Rear Pro Lift Kit fits all 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 truck models.
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Fitment:
- 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
- 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Supreme Suspensions CHSL07FK2020
CA Residents: 
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Installation & What's in the Box
Installation Info
What's in the Box
- (2) Front Billet Strut Spacers
- (2) Rear Billet Lift Blocks
- (4) Zinc Plated Extended U Bolts
- (1) Installation Instruction Manual
4.6
Customer Reviews (211)
Review Summary
Installation Time: Afternoon
Jan 6, 2023
2008 LTZ - AnthonyQuattro
Installation Time: Afternoon
EASY LIFT
Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500) EASY INSTALL WITH PARTS THAT FIT PERFECTLY. WHAT A DIFFERANCE IN STANCE! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND AMERICAN TRUCKS FOR ALL OF YOUR TRUCK ACCESSORIE NEEDS! ***PLUS FAST SHIPPING TOO A+++++
Handling 5/5
Offroad Ride Quality 5/5
Onroad Ride Quality 5/5
Fit 5/5
Quality 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 4/5
Jun 7, 2022
2016 LT - HilsIOWA
Installation Time: Afternoon
Easy install
Perfect for the guy that want give his old man truck a little facelift. Definitely gives the truck more of a truck feel. Easy install, watched the videos from American Truck and went step by step, about a 3hr install.
Handling 4/5
Offroad Ride Quality 0/5
Onroad Ride Quality 4/5
Fit 5/5
Quality 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
May 23, 2019
2018 High Country - Mo
Great products
Easy to install as indicated and great product TNX
Offroad Ride Quality 5/5
Onroad Ride Quality 5/5
Appearance 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
May 17, 2019
2014 LT - ChevyOwner
Not as Advertised
The front spacer is 1 in. not 2 in. Be aware that this lift only gives you 1 inch over stock front and back! The advertisement says 2 in. Front. Not sure why the falsities. The back 2 in. block is also not slanted forward and replaces the 1 in. stock block so again be aware when comparing products. I will be returning it.
Offroad Ride Quality 5/5
Onroad Ride Quality 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
Appearance 5/5
Dec 23, 2018
2018 LT - KristonS
Looks Great !
Changes the whole look of your truck ! It’s not easy, but had a good time doing it. With the right tools, it took me about an hour and a half. But, it was worth it !
Offroad Ride Quality 5/5
Onroad Ride Quality 5/5
Appearance 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
Aug 31, 2018
2018 LT - Louie
Installation Time: Full Day
Took longer than expected
It took me many hours to install , but i am not that handy . improves the look of my truck , but it is harder getting in and out of . Be sure to clean out the holes in the rear blocks , i had to file them out a little . very happy with the purchase .
Offroad Ride Quality 5/5
Onroad Ride Quality 5/5
Appearance 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
Nov 21, 2024
Review shared from Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Suspension Lift Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)
2008 LTZ - BryanR
Installation Time: Afternoon
Front was too low!
I installed this kit on my truck and i had no idea how much of a lift it actually was and it ended up being perfect! The front of my truck was lower than the back and I didn't like it, this solved it completely and improved the look! It didn't seem to alter the way my truck handled so that's a plus! Great mod!
Offroad Ride Quality 5/5
Onroad Ride Quality 5/5
Handling 5/5
Fit 5/5
Quality 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
Jun 27, 2024
Review shared from Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Suspension Lift Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)
2011 - Jeffreyc
Installation Time: Afternoon
Lift
The lift I got was pretty easy to install does rub alittle with 33-12.50-20 but not to bad over all like this lift
Handling 4/5
Offroad Ride Quality 4/5
Onroad Ride Quality 4/5
Fit 3/5
Quality 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 5/5
Jan 10, 2024
Review shared from Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front / 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Suspension Lift Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)
2011 LT - RodneyS.
Installation Time: Full Day
2011 2 in front 1in rear kit: disappointing
I bought it because I was told 33 in tires on stock rims would fit without rubbing. They rub. Rear blocks are the same height as stock blocks so they weren't used because it would have been just a waste of time. I didn't want to go to tall because my 5'6" wife drives the truck. It's level, I'll say that, but I wouldn't recommend this kit unless you stay under 31 in tires.
Offroad Ride Quality 3/5
Handling 3/5
Onroad Ride Quality 3/5
Fit 3/5
Quality 5/5
Bang For Your Buck 2/5
Dec 5, 2023
Review shared from Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Suspension Lift Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)
2018 - ClintonF
Installation Time: Afternoon
Lift kit
This was my favorite purchase. I installed this kit myself and it took me about 3 hours. I had to jimmy the blocks into place because I did not have the proper jack stands to lift my truck high enough off the ground. All in all it was an easy install.
Handling 0/5
Offroad Ride Quality 0/5
Onroad Ride Quality 0/5
Fit 0/5
Quality 0/5
Bang For Your Buck 0/5
Questions & Answers (1)
5 Top Rated Questions
Q: Is a new set of shocks required for this application?
A: You do not need to upgrade your shocks, however when you are lifting your vehicle, we always recommend purchasing shocks to match the height.
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