2021-2025
2015-2020
2009-2014
2004-2008
1997-2003
Installation Time
(approx) 2 Hours
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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PowerStop Performance Rear Brake Calipers; Red (12-14 2WD/4WD F-150; 15-17 F-150 w/ Manual Parking Brake; 17-18 F-150 Raptor)Find parts that fit my vehicle
Item T532978-B
$0.00
16 Reviews
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(1)Justin: If you're the owner of a 2004 and newer F-150 equipped with a manual parking brake and are looking to replace a set of damaged or faulty rear calipers, the PowerStops that we're talking about here today will be an affordable solution that will also add a little bit of color at the same time. Now, the PowerStop calipers will be a direct replacement for the factory rears on your F-150. They have been pressure tested before being finished off in a bright red powder coat for a fresh look. Price point for the new guys here will be right around 300 bucks for the pair, mind you, and the install, according to the site, will get a middle of the road two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, a couple of hours to complete from start to finish.So PowerStop is known for producing a wide variety of braking components and upgrades for a wide variety of applications, including, of course, the F-150 here, where they do offer everything from the calipers we're talking about today all the way down the line to the full-blown pad and rotor kits, which, by the way, you can also find on the site. And with all that said here, guys, I feel like these calipers will really appeal to the owners in need of an affordable re-replacement, but with that added benefit of the red powder coat to match a set of aftermarket fronts or maybe just for a unique look behind your favorite set of stock or aftermarket wheels.Now, taking these things out of the box for the first time, you'll notice these calipers are essentially 100% new from the high-quality components, such as your upgraded seals, your EPDM boots, high-temp silicone, and more to either meet or exceed the performance of your factory rear calipers. Now, for the owners out there who really dig this idea of a budget brake upgrade like the PowerStop stuff without forking out Wilwood or Brembo money, well, again, PowerStop does also make components, all of which here are pretty affordable in the grand scheme of things, including a set of matching front calipers, by the way, same red powder coat, which you can also find here on the site for a 100% fresh overhaul. Also keep in mind here, guys, that these are designed to fit trucks with a manual parking brake, which is a statement geared a little bit more towards those 2015 and newer trucks out there as Ford did offer an electronic parking brake or e-brake on some of the newer stuff. But again, if you have an '04, for instance, you can kind of disregard this statement.Finally, guys, I do want to point out the fact that the calipers do also include brand new bleeder screws, hardware, and pins to get you up and running for the very first time, and do also come with a limited 90-day warranty in case you should run into any issues. As far as your installation is concerned, well, you do need to figure in or factor in, I should say, the removal of your factory calipers prior to the installation, along with bleeding the new setup once everything has been completed. Not the hardest job in the world, but since there is some work involved, site's automatically gonna kick this one up to a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, maybe a couple of hours to complete from start to finish.Man: Hello, today we're going to be doing the brake change kit, the PowerStop Z36 brake kit from American Trucks. We have a 2014 Ford F-150 Raptor that we're going to be doing this on today. The demonstration is going to be on the left rear driver's side. To do this change, you will be needing some brake cleaner, some paper towels, a mallet, 12-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter wrench. A way to pinch off the hose line, we're going to be using Vise-Grips with some rubber hose, 5/16 rubber hose on the end. A way to bleed the brakes are your new parts, your new rotor, and make sure they're all indicated. This is the rear driver side. New caliper and bracket, pads and hardware.So we'll start by loosening all the hardware and you start by loosening these two 18-millimeter bolts that hold the caliper bracket, one right here, one right here, which I've already pre-loosened, and we will also be removing the brake hose here. So we'll start by tensioning that off. It's just somewhere close up here. If you have a hose clamp, it's better, but this works. And that just helps keep them from being so messy. And then, as I said, I've already pre-loosened all these, so we can pop those out. Put that one in. Let's take the hose clamp off. I like to pull the plug out of the new one and put it in there. It helps keep from draining so much. Take this banjo bolt out, all the way out. Pop that back in there. The washer off. Put that down there.We'll remove this caliper and the bracket at the same time. And then we'll remove the rotor. [inaudible 00:05:21.598] are hard to get off. Smack it with a mallet. It's got to be tapped around so it cuts loose. There she goes. Then we'll clean it up a bit. Then we will get our new caliper. Remove the bracket. Okay, we'll remove that with the 13-millimeter. And this is our bracket which will go like this. We've got to put our new clips on. We'll use that one. So these go on here like this, with the wing towards the inside. They just snap on there. There it goes. Same thing with this one. Wings to the inside just like that. Slip it just like that. There it goes. Okay. I'm gonna go ahead and put our bolts back in. Just snug them up for right now. And then we're gonna put a little bit of this anti-rattle lubricant. I'm gonna put just a little bit on this, right on that clip. To the sides, but try not to get [inaudible 00:08:51.111]. Doesn't take much, just a little bit. Put just a little bit on, right on the ears of this. And then that will pop right into that. Just like that. Same thing with the other one. Same thing. Just pop it down there. I think the clips just weren't on there quite all right.All right, so that's all. We're gonna put our caliper with the new bolts in here. Of course these always go to the top, so if it was on the wrong side, it would be on the bottom like this. So the blake bleeder always goes on top. Thirteen-millimeter, snug those down. We'll come back and torque those down. That's on. Remove this cap, the dust cover. We'll get our two new copper washers and our banjo bolt. We'll clean that out. We'll put one washer on. Slide it through the brake [inaudible 00:11:34.846]. Start that in there and make sure that the guide pin is in the other hole. Screw it in all the way, finger tight. Make sure it's not cross threaded or anything that's... I make sure I screw in until I know it's hand tight. And then we'll get a 12-millimeter. Snug that up. These don't have to be real, real tight, just snug. Okay. These are [inaudible 00:12:17.262]. And there we go.Now we will proceed on to bleeding the brakes. We will do that with... You can do it multiple ways. You can have somebody pump the pedal inside, 10, 15 pumps, hold the pedal to the pressure under the floor, and then have somebody release this brake bleeding, and just let the air out, shut it off, make sure they keep the pedal to the floor beforehand before you get this tight. And then once you tighten this back up, they can release it and pump again. You got to keep doing that till all the air is out. Or you can also use a little vacuum pump, which is what I do most of the time. It comes with a different finish, you pop that over your brake meter. So I'm gonna... like that. And then let me get my wrench. This is an 11-millimeter.Okay, let's [inaudible 00:13:23.316] back up. You gotta kinda hold that on there. This isn't the best in the world. And pump it 15, 20 times till you build up to about 15 to 20. Pump it. And then these, till it goes down and not just before it bottoms out. Now it's all air in that one. And then just starting to get some fluid. Now we're starting to get some fluid through there. Just the air but a little bit of fluid. Again, just as it gets towards the bottom, tighten it up, your air pressure. As soon as it starts dropping down, I guess about five, I stop it. Pump it again. You'd see the fluid's going with air to the end of the canister. You just keep repeating this process, this procedure until you get all the air out. It typically takes... I don't know. I usually get a couple inches in here and I'll do it again. It's usually pretty good by about then. I do this as I go.This happens to be the left rear. We started with the right rear. We'll walk around and look at that in a second because that's the furthest one from the brake, the master cylinder. So I kind of pre-bleed them as I go. Instead of doing all four and then having air in each caliper, it just seems to be a lot harder to get all the air out. So I did the right rear first, just like we did this one, then came over here. I'll do this side until there's no more air coming out. Then we're gonna move to the right front and then the left front. And then after we're all done, we'll go back and bleed them again. But this seems to be the easiest way to do it. So we'll walk around, take a look at the right rear, and then we'll [inaudible 00:15:27.738] everything up and move to the right front.And moving on to our front, we've got [inaudible 00:15:33.276] here on the right front. We're going to remove all of this assembly, the caliper and the rotor. To do the fronts, we'll need a mallet, 12-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, 14-millimeter wrench and/or socket, our brake bleeding vacuum tool, and our new parts, the caliper, rotor, and pads. So we'll start off by loosening the caliper bracket bolts, which are the 21-millimeters on the back side here. Take those off. And now the top one. Before we pull that all the way out, we'll go ahead and loosen our banjo bolt with the 12-millimeter. We're gonna pull the plug out of the new caliper so we could put it in here. Then pull the brake line off. Oh, crap. I forgot to clamp off the brake line. That's why it keeps dripping. There we go. So you want to clamp that off before you remove it, just as we did in the rear. Clip them in these, 21-millimeter bolts. Just slide the assembly off.Okay, guys, we're back. This rotor did not want to come off. I tried liquid creep and lubricant and beat on it, and it was not budging, so I ended up having to make this little puller. You can buy these, but I only have some pieces of a flat bar and a couple of nuts, drilled the holes and welded a nut on here was, and able to put it on there and crank this in and pop it off. It was not gonna come off. It was stubborn. But it's off now. So we're going to clean this up real good and then we'll start assembling our parts. Clean this up a little bit. If you don't have an air tool, then you can just use some sandpaper and some Scotch-Brite fuzz and just clean that up. It gets the majority of it off. We're out here in the southwest desert so it's not near as bad, but I'm surprised that that was on there as tight as it was. [inaudible 00:19:41.224] the dust off.All right. Wipe down our rotors. We've gotta grease everything off of there. Remove our caliper bracket. Insert our clips. Here are our new clips. So these go on here. This would go on here like that. Snap them in. Sometimes they're a little tight to get [inaudible 00:20:59.855] on there. So the little ear goes to the outside. So let me go ahead and start these. They're 21-millimeter bolts. Let's get them started. Snug them up. They don't have to be real tight just yet. Just [inaudible 00:23:13.959] it around each tab. I already got it on the clips. Again, this screw always goes to the top. Top bolt in. I think it was 14. Yeah, 14-millimeter. Snug those up.So now we can put our banjo bolts. Clean that up. Make sure they don't get any debris in there. Get our two new copper washers. That one was stuck in there, the old one. So make sure they're both out so you could put that new one in. Make sure that the retainer is stuck in the other hole. Make sure it's not cross threaded, it goes in real easy. Snug that up. Release the brake line. And then just tighten everything up to specs. And then we'll move on to the bleeding procedure. And we just keep doing that until we get all the air out. And then once we do the other front, we'll go back around and do them all again to make sure we're getting no air. It's starting to pull fluid now. So we will continue that process until we get full fluid on this side and then we'll go over and do the driver's side.Justin: So if you are looking to freshen up the rears on your 2004 to present F-150 while adding a little bit of bling at the same time, be sure to check out the PowerStop rear calipers for your rig right here at americantrucks.com.
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2012-2017 F-150 PowerStop Performance Rear Brake Calipers Review & Install
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Product Information
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Features
- Stylish Red Rear Brake Calipers
- Comes with Heat-Treated Powder Coat Finish for Protection Against Corrosion
- Includes High-Temperature EPDM Rubber Boots for Long-Lasting Durability
- Lubricated with Premium Silicone Fluid for Smoother Braking
- Pressure Tested to Guarantee Leak Prevention
- Bleeder Screws, Hardware, and Pins Included
- Direct Fit Replacement
- 90-Day Limited Warranty
- Fits 2012-2014 2WD/4WD Ford F-150 Models
- Fits 2015-2017 F-150 with Manual Parking Brake and 2017-2018 F-150 Raptor Models
Description
High-Performance Brake Calipers. Take your F-150's braking power to the next level with PowerStop’s Performance Red Rear Brake Calipers. These calipers have been engineered for high-performance braking and have been thoroughly tested to work better and brake safer than your truck’s stock calipers.
Highly Durable and Reliable. All Performance Calipers come with high-temperature EPDM rubber boots for extra strength and durability. They are also lubricated using high-temperature silicone fluid to ensure smoother braking.
Heavy-Duty Red Powder Finish. These calipers have been made more stunning with their durable red powder finish. But this coating also protects the calipers from rust and other types of corrosion.
Direct Replacement Calipers. These calipers bolt directly to your truck. Installation takes about one hour using only basic hand tools.
Worry-Free Warranty. The Calipers come with a 90-day, or 3,000-mile, warranty against defects in material and substandard workmanship from the purchase date, whichever comes first. This excludes any damage resulting from accident, abuse, improper installation, or normal wear and tear.
Application. These PowerStop Performance Red Rear Brake Calipers are engineered for use on 2012-2014 2WD/4WD F-150, 2015-2017 F-150 with Manual Parking Brake and 2017-2018 F-150 Raptor Models.
Highly Durable and Reliable. All Performance Calipers come with high-temperature EPDM rubber boots for extra strength and durability. They are also lubricated using high-temperature silicone fluid to ensure smoother braking.
Heavy-Duty Red Powder Finish. These calipers have been made more stunning with their durable red powder finish. But this coating also protects the calipers from rust and other types of corrosion.
Direct Replacement Calipers. These calipers bolt directly to your truck. Installation takes about one hour using only basic hand tools.
Worry-Free Warranty. The Calipers come with a 90-day, or 3,000-mile, warranty against defects in material and substandard workmanship from the purchase date, whichever comes first. This excludes any damage resulting from accident, abuse, improper installation, or normal wear and tear.
Application. These PowerStop Performance Red Rear Brake Calipers are engineered for use on 2012-2014 2WD/4WD F-150, 2015-2017 F-150 with Manual Parking Brake and 2017-2018 F-150 Raptor Models.
Information on PowerStop's proper Break-In Procedure can be found here: https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
Fitment:
- 2012 Ford F-150
- 2013 Ford F-150
- 2014 Ford F-150
- 2015 Ford F-150
- 2016 Ford F-150
- 2017 Ford F-150
- 2018 Ford F-150
PowerStop S5396
CA Residents: 
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Installation & What's in the Box
Installation Info
What's in the Box
- (2) Rear Calipers
- Installation Hardware
4.9
Customer Reviews (16)
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Will It Fit My F-150
- 3.5L V6 EcoBoost - 12, 13, 14
- 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Raptor - 17, 18
- 3.7L V6 - 12, 13, 14
- 5.0L V8 - 12, 13, 14
- 6.2L V8 - 12, 13, 14
- 6.2L V8 Raptor - 12, 13, 14
